How to Crate Train a Puppy
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Crate training in my opinion when done correctly is a vital part of responsible pet ownership.
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Being able to use a crate with your dog opens up more opportunities for you and your dog throughout life and does so with safety and security as its focus.
Crate training is a process where your dog learns to be happy and safe in a secure space with the door sometimes shut.
A crate if introduced correctly should be a space your dog seeks out when they want to get, peace and quiet. It can be a place they feel safe in when staying away from home with the door closed or open depending on the circumstances. It can also be used as a safe haven in times where the house is busy, lively or during times that can be worrying like fireworks night. For these the door would be open.
My Cavapoo loves her crate especially on holidays. It means whether we are camping or staying with friends or family that don’t have pets or in hotels she is safe and settles easily.
I can take her with me almost anywhere because she loves her crate.
"Crates must NEVER be used for punishment, or your dog will never fully be happy in it and may start avoiding it."
Crates must NEVER be used for punishment, or your dog will never fully be happy in it and may start avoiding it. When this happens, you miss out on a world of benefits for you and your dog.
When specifically looking at puppies we cannot keep an eye on them all the time and they can get into mischief quickly not to mention be destructive. While they grow and learn what not to chew and play with and what they can, a crate can literally be a life saver.
Getting the right size crate is important for long term success.
Remember to upgrade as your puppy grows. Most puppies need two crate sizes in their life.
You must measure Puppy from nose to tail and make sure your puppy can lie flat in their crate for full REM sleep. Crates really should only be used for sleep times. For popping your puppy away when they are not needing to sleep so you can get on with a chore or two or deal with someone coming to the door etc then a play pen should be provided. If you have space the best set up is a play pen with a crate in or attached to it. If not, you may need the crate and play pen to be in different spaces or use a crate for sleep and then use a baby gate for play time in the safest room in the house.
Crates need to be in a quiet part of the home and not in a thoroughfare. If using it in a busy room like the kitchen just find the quietest space to place it.
It can be helpful to have a crate in your bedroom and one in the main house to save moving it in and out of the bedroom. This is only needed while you get your puppy used to sleeping on their own where you want them to stay overnight and they can be left to safely nap in the day. That process can take a long time so two crates can be a god send. Eventually just having one crate in the quietest part of the house for adult dogs will provide a safe haven. Safe havens should ideally be places where dogs are not handled or bothered when resting, especially by children and visitors.
Crates do not need to be brand new; metal ones last a long time and are available second hand.
If you do not have space and want to use the crate for more than just sleeping, then it needs to be much bigger to allow for a bed and then a mat to play and chew on etc.
To help the puppy settle, especially if the crate is large, cover the sleeping area or some of the crate if it’s a smaller sleeping one.
You will need a water bowl. I prefer one that mounts on the metal crate to avoid it being tipped.
A vet bed across the base and a dog bed or blanket on top. A couple of safe toys and helps to give them something to chew like a puppy Kong stuffed with something you know agrees with their tummy.
Introducing a crate can be slow going especially if the breeder didn’t introduce one. Do not rush the process or you will at best make things take a lot longer at worst create an aversion.
Leaving your puppy in the crate for too long will cause them to become frustrated and less likely to get in next time.
If your puppy is having a hard time or is stressed, avoid crate training at that time.
Every puppy is different and if this simple recipe for success isn’t working get advice from a qualified behaviourist or trainer quickly before giving up.
Set the crate up as suggested above to make it welcoming.
If you can afford you can get a puppy company toy with a beating heart and plug an ADAPTIL plug in nearby or use the ADAPTIL spray.
During the day when your puppy is not looking, hide their favourite toys, chews and treats in there for them to find at some point in the day.
Leave the door open.
Play a game which teaches puppy time in the crate is rewarding like the GO CRATE training from KIKO PUP. This also helps to gradually get them used to the door being shut. Do this at least once a day until the crate is fully accepted.
When the puppy is tired but not over tired (being nippy or chewing things) put them in the crate, give them something to do like a stuffed Kong, pop on some classical music or a calm quiet TV program. Sit down near them and relax. Make sure you open the crate door before they wake or as they are waking. You can ignore a few seconds of whining and attention seeking as long as the puppy is then able to settle. It can help to have a book to read or the tv on low to stop you looking at the puppy. You will get to know your puppy’s routine and when they are most likely to want to sleep. You do not have to do this for every nap, just make sure it's one a day at least.
When they wake do not make a big fuss of letting them out just open the door and get on with the day.
"If this is not going well and you are getting more than a few seconds of whining before the puppy settles then get help asap rather than risk causing problems."
There are many more top tips to introducing crates so if this is not going well and you are getting more than a few seconds of whining before the puppy settles then get help asap rather than risk causing problems.
For overnight use make sure you take your puppy out to the toilet or have a crate big enough to provide a designated toileting area. The former is much better although it requires more work.
Some people advise removing water, but I feel all animals deserve access to water. Being thirsty and not being able to get to water is not going to help them like the crate. Of course, to help with your sleep and toilet training don’t give them a full bowl.
Seek professional help from a behaviourist if you notice any of the following. If there are any signs of stress, frustration or anxiety from your puppy when in the crate. Signs would be yawning when not tiered, panting, pawing at the crate or chewing the bars. If your puppy shows signs of separation anxiety like toileting in the crate and it wasn’t just an accident, whining for more than a few seconds, howling or barking.
Behaviourists are not regulated in the UK so look out for someone qualified to at least degree level and preferably accredited with one of the voluntary bodies like the APBC, CCAB, CAB etc. You can always ask your vet for recommendations too.
Yes, crate training can be very helpful for puppies when it is introduced gently and positively. A crate should never be used as punishment. Instead, it should become a safe, calm space where your puppy can rest, sleep and feel secure.
For many puppies, a crate can help with settling overnight, managing nap times, preventing unsafe chewing and creating a familiar space when travelling or staying away from home. The key is to build positive associations slowly, using treats, toys, calm praise and short sessions.
Puppies should only be crated for short periods, especially while they are still learning. Crates are best used for sleep and rest, rather than as somewhere to keep your puppy for long stretches while you are busy.
A young puppy will need regular toilet breaks, water access, play, training and time with you. Leaving them in the crate for too long can lead to frustration, stress and a puppy who becomes reluctant to go back in. For times when your puppy is awake but needs to be safely contained, a puppy pen, baby gate or puppy-proofed room is often a better option.
Your puppy’s crate should be big enough for them to stand up, turn around, stretch out and lie flat comfortably. This is especially important for proper rest and deep REM sleep.
Most puppies will need more than one crate size as they grow. If the crate is too small, it will feel uncomfortable. If it is very large, it may help to create a cosier sleeping area by covering part of the crate or using bedding to make the space feel more secure.
A puppy’s crate should be comfortable, safe and inviting. Good options include a washable base layer such as vet bed, a cosy blanket or dog bed, a few safe toys and a chew or stuffed puppy Kong that you already know agrees with their tummy.
Your puppy should also have access to water. A crate-mounted water bowl can be useful because it is harder to tip over. Avoid anything your puppy could shred, swallow or get tangled in, and check bedding and toys regularly for damage.
A few seconds of attention-seeking whining can be normal while your puppy is learning, especially if they are tired and settling down. However, ongoing crying, barking, howling, pawing at the crate, panting, chewing the bars or toileting in the crate can be signs your puppy is stressed or struggling.
If your puppy is finding crate training difficult, slow the process down and focus on making the crate feel positive again. Keep the door open, hide treats and toys inside, practise short crate games and avoid shutting them in before they are ready. If the crying continues or you see signs of anxiety, speak to a qualified behaviourist or ask your vet for a recommendation.